Heraldry: l'Archiginnasio di Bologna

In which we see the decoration as a message from history.

Heraldry illuminates a stairway of the Archiginnasio, Bologna

The spectacular Palazzo Archiginnasio was built in 1563, to a design by architect Antonio Morandi, as the main campus of the venerable University of Bologna. It houses a world-famous Baroque anatomy theater and since the 1830s has been used as the civic library, preserving a vast collection of antique and modern manuscripts and rare books.  I finally got a chance to visit this winter!

* Central courtyard and loggia of the Archiginnasio  (photo)

What makes this impressive place a destination for the Ornamentalist is the heraldic decoration! Presented in every conceivable manner, the walls and ceiling vaults are encrusted with heraldic arms, which were added continuously until the late 18th century.  Some 6,000 coats of arms commemorate past students, alongside memorials to illustrious  teachers, noble patrons, and church affiliations.

enclosed gallery of the Archiginnasio with the coats of arms of past students

These heraldic devices are more than a brilliant form of decoration, they emphasize the history and international prestige of the academic institution, while their inscriptions and mottos inspire intellectual and moral elevation.  

Stairway of the Artisti, Palazzo Archiginnasio

Two grand staircases lead to the lecture halls of the upper level, which was divided between two schools: one for the Legisti (students of civil and canon law) and the other for the Artisti  (students of philosophy, literature and medicine.)  A dizzying collection of arms covers the walls and ceilings.
The honor of displaying a crest was reserved for those students elected as heads of the nationes (student organizations.) These escutcheons or coats of arms indicate the home country or city of the student, along with the student's name.

Up the stairway of the Legisti, and the Lion of Venice

The antique lecture halls were converted in the early 19th century with rows of bookcases, and now preserve the most important books of the library.  The initial collection came from the closure of the religious orders made by Napoleon. Currently this archive contains over 850,000 volumes and pamphlets including 2,000 incunabula (pre-1501 printed editions); 15,000 editions from the 16th century;  8,500 manuscripts; letters and collections of autographs; as well as prints, drawings, maps, and other materials of immense historical importance.

Sala Rusconi, a former lecture hall, begins an enfilade of library stacks full of rare and important texts.

plaster plaques with more coats of arms hang like fringe around a memorial

Parts of the palace, including the anatomy theatre, were destroyed by a bomb in WWII, but have since been faithfully reconstructed. Evidence of the damage can still be seen where painted decoration is missing, or in the in scorch marks of surviving frescoes.  In some places the names or even the emblems have vanished, but the connection to history remains.

The crests and mottos of even the unknown past students,  emanate a message of history and continuation

a dramatic passageway leading to the lecture halls

all photos in the post by Lynne Rutter
except *  by Guido Barbi.
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Archiginnasio virtual visit!

Lynne Rutter Studio

The Putti of the Palazzo Albizi

A putto with a galero and Santo Stephano cross, on a ceiling in the Palazzo Albizzi, Florence

Along the Borgo degl'Albizi in Florence, fortress-like palazzi form deep canyons of stone facades, though which flows a river of pedestrian traffic.   At the center of this strada is the Palazzo Albizi.  Like most of these palaces the former home of the once-powerful Albizzi family is now divided into many shops, offices, and apartments, but is especially notable for reclaimed rooms on the street level, now the flagship store of "Maestri di Fabbrica." 

Maestri di Fabbrica, located in the former Palazzo Albizi

a telemon painted into a column

I am told that the frescoes were painted by Bernardino Poccetti or one of his pupils in the late 16th century.   In some areas the restoration of them is a bit ham-fisted but the overall design makes clever use of the space and there are plenty of thrilling details.

These trompe l'oeil murals now form a spectacular backdrop for the handcrafted work of a number of Tuscan artisans; displays of natural cosmetics and candles; a very nice buffet serving local specialties; and a boutique dedicated to fine local wines and olive oil. It wasn't until Theresa Cheek visited us in Florence that I discovered there was also a small back room with a surfeit of decorative art books at only €10 each.

putto with a river anchor and the Maltese cross of the Knights Hospitaller

One room in the shop was formerly a chapel; its ceiling populated with putti carrying symbolic items such as a fish hook-styled anchor, a cardinal's galero, and "Maltese" crosses, one a symbol of the Knights Hospitaller, a medieval religious military order, another a reference to the "Holy Military Order of St. Stephen Pope and Martyr" founded by Cosimo de' Medici in 1561.

Also, some pretty good putti painted into these ceilings. If you are like me and you are always looking for good putti. 

16th century trompe l'oeil murals in the former Palazzo Albizi

Maestri di Fabricci is located at Borgo degl'Albizi, 68, Firenze



all photos in this post by Lynne Rutter, Florence, February, 2014
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*The English spell the name Albizzi. I have no idea why.


  

Lynne Rutter Murals + Decorative Painting

Heraldry: le Arti di Firenze

ceiling in the former Guelph Party headquarters

I passed by an open door and spied heraldic splendor on the ceiling, and my inner geek let out a slightly audible squeal.  On the door reads  Biblioteca Palagio di Parte Guelfa."  People were reading intently and looking serious.   I ventured inside and studied the ceiling trying to read the various symbols, my brain whirring away trying to access what Florentine history I can recall, my hand hovering over my camera bag like a gunslinger waiting for just the right moment to draw.

detail of Guelph party ceiling

Heraldry isn't just for noble families:  I recognized the banners of the Arti,  Florentine guilds who were active in commerce, as well as politics. The shields of two major guilds, the Arte di Calimala and the Arte dei Linaioli e Rigattieri, both textile guilds, take pride of place in the center along with the Florentine city shield, and that of the Guelph party.  The Guelphs, whose shield is white with a red cross, had a complicated and often bloody religious and political rivalry with the Ghibellines, whose shield was red with a white cross.  Theirs was an epic medieval conflict  which persisted in various mutations well into the 15th century.

detail showing the insignia of the Guilds of Florence

Encircling the shields in the center is a marvelous graphic border with the insignia of each of the Florentine guilds: stonemasons, speziale, blacksmiths, innkeepers, tanners, locksmiths, etc.  Surrounding all this is a field of deep blue  patterned with the French fleur de lis, possibly a reference to one of the (brief) periods of good relations between Florence and the French Crown.
Painted entirely by hand, each feature varies just a bit which really adds to the patina and feeling of history.  It almost looks like the banners are fluttering proudly overhead.

It's just great ornament and you all know how I feel about that.





photos by Lynne Rutter, Florence, March, 2014
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 Lynne Rutter Murals + Decorative Painting

Residenz München- Antiquarium

Anitquarium of the Munich Residenz

It was the last day of our December travels, and we had about five hours in Munich before our flight homeward, barely enough time for a quick run through the Residenz, the Palace of the Bavarian rulers.   The gem of the palace, is the  magnificent Antiquarium.   Billed as "the Largest Renaissance Hall North of the Alps" at 66 meters long, the Antiquarium, was created circa 1570 by Jacopo Strada for Duke Albrecht V, to display a vast collection of classical busts. It was redesigned to its current appearance as a banquet hall in 1586-1600 by Friedrich Sustris; the floor was lowered and the ceiling decorated with paintings by Peter Candid, Antonio Ponzano, and, of course, Hans Thonauer the Elder.

Groteske ornament surrounds cartouches with scenes of Bavaria

But really-- the groteske ornament steals the whole show, much of it designed by Sustris himself.   It is graceful and Fantastic.  In the Winter Light, it appears rather moody.

Münchner Wappen featured in a cartouche over a window

As you may imagine much of the Residenz was severely damaged during the bombings in WWII.  Fortunately the Antiquarium survived, although not without some losses.  Parts of the ceiling have been recreated, and some areas are  bit fuzzy from smoke damage, but overall it's breathtaking: a blend of classical serenity, and colorful whimsy.

Grotesque ceiling ornamentation dates from the end of the 16th century

Sebastian Schmuttermaier in action!

While visiting this palace we met photographer Sebastian Schmuttermaier, who had obtained permission to bring in a tripod and a special camera mount to shoot 360 degree panoramic images of several rooms in the Residenz. Have a look at the spectacular results of his work on his website.  Follow the arrows to take a tour!



All photos in this post by Lynne Rutter, taken in Munich, Germany, December 2012
click on images to view at larger size.

Lynne Rutter Murals + Decorative Painting

Wappensaal

Groß Wappensaal of the Landhaus Klagenfurt

The capital of the Austrian state of Carinthia, Klagenfurt boasts a splendid Landhaus, or "country house," built as the seat of the state government in its more feudal arrangement, and which now serves as the state house as well as a museum. It's famous for its magnificent Wappensaal (Hall of Arms), a must-see for heraldry geeks and ornamentalists alike.

The arms of the noble families of Carinthia painted on the walls of the Klagenfurt Landhaus Wappensaal.

The Landhaus and the Wappensaal date from the early 16th century but suffered a great fire in 1723. The building was remodeled in the Baroque style and the Hall redecorated by painter Josef Ferdinand Fromiller (1693-1760).  In addition to the grand Scheinarchitektur ceiling fresco and a pair of murals depicting important events in the founding of the Carinthian state, the walls are covered with over 650 coats of arms of all of the armigerous families of the region.  Some additions were made in later years all the way through the 19th century, with a few spaces left blank to honor extinct families whose crests could no longer be found.

Josef Ferdinand Fromiller's ceiling fresco features a brilliant quadratura colonnade  and portraits of himself and his sons in the corner.

The trompe l'oeil in this grand hall is elegantly painted,  and very effective. However the almost graphic pattern of arms emblazoning the walls is stunning both as decor and as a device for creating a sense of continuous history. Which is rather the point after all.

marquetry doors and surrounds made of black marble

The inlaid marble floor and baroque marble doorways were created by a Venetian master named Francesco Robba. The marquetry doors are also particularly fine.

After years of traveling together, Erling has now amassed a collection of photos of me taking photos. He is over there capturing me with his iPhone.

Kleiner Wappensaal  (1740), currently used as a conference room.

A smaller Wappensaal in the Landhaus was also painted in 1740 by Fromiller with a further 298 arms of Burgraves, Presidents, and Chancellors. This room is in use for conferences and has been modernized around the murals. The ceiling mural is entitled "Veritas Temporis Filia" (Truth is the Daughter of Time.) 

Is your conference room emblazoned with armorial splendor?  No?  Well maybe it should be.

For German and Austrian arms there is of course a great book (just as there exists for English and French arms) identifying each family and you can find this Wappenbuch online.   

I am reining myself in tremendously here because I can go on and on about heraldry and other rooms decorated in this way, and am bursting to do so, but I am going to have to save that for another time. 
Stay tuned for more from Austria coming up soon!


all photos in this post by Lynne Rutter, Klagenfurt, December 2012
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Lynne Rutter Murals + Decorative Painting