This weekend I attended the San Francisco
|detail of a 19th century Suzani piece|
|a large 19th century Suzani tapestry - all hand-embroidered|
Nearby, a collection of Ottoman textiles caught my eye:
|Detail of an intense purple antique batik sarong. Note the tiny white dots that follow the form of each petal. |
|Ipek Ottoman wedding robe with bullion thread|
What is this intense ruby color? What pigment or dye makes this color? I have to find out.
|detail of Ottoman wedding robe- intense ruby silk and silver bullion |
|large antique Suzani in fuchsia pink. Fabulous.|
The color palettes in some of these fabrics are loaded with surprising combinations, and I found many of them remarkably modern looking.
|detail of a splendid pink and black Suzani|
|antique Japanese lined printed in an interconnected geometric pattern|
|An antique printed and dyed pattern on gossamer light linen from Africa|
Marvelous patterns and colors can also be found in tiles, baskets, carpets...
|antique Iznik tile |
|flat woven wool carpet (kilim)|
|a collection of antique African baskets from a Belgian dealer|
|A colorful and abstract Saami quilt|
I was particularly intrigued by a display of vintage Saami ralli quilts
- made from discarded fabrics, pulled apart and recycled by the nomadic Saami people around Sindh, Pakistan, hand-dyed scraps are beautifully and simply assembled and embroidered. This work is fast becoming a lost art.
|Saami ralli quilt|
|detail of Saami ralli quilt|
On the opposite side of the spectrum, an example of superb formal embroidery from China:
|Antique Chinese embroidery|
|detail of silk embroidered peony|
Ikat when done well is truly mesmerizing. Ikat is a near universal weaving style common to many cultures from Argentina to Java, from Uzbekistan to Japan. It is one of the oldest forms of textile decoration.
|A rich woven silk Ikat fabric (Turkish) from the 19th century|
I found a length of antique printed fabric with a lovely patina, the kind of thing that influenced the work of Fortuny. I found it rather inspiring as well.
|antique printed fabric from Persia (?)|
All photos in this post by Lynne Rutter, February, 2013
- click on images to view larger.
|Persian printed fabric, detail |
What a wonderful show. I love the Persian fabric at the end, it has an incredible design. Lucky you!ReplyDelete
This looks like a great show, and an inspiring one, too. My favorites of these are the Saami quilts. Aside from handsome, modern designs (I'm reminded of Paul Klee), there's something very endearing about the time and care to recycle something so beautifully.ReplyDelete
beautiful and inspiring! thank you for letting us see the show too.ReplyDelete
I like Suzani very much for their spirited coloring and unique patterns, natural resources and refinement of embroidery skills. I think that many of us like Suzani for this.ReplyDelete
The article is really mind boggling.ReplyDelete
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